I went as far as to cover the forward “ventilation” holes, trigger housing, all bolt holes and ejection port. Starting at the muzzle, apply a generous amount of masking or electrical tape to any ingress point on the replica. note that the TM is different to the KWA MP7 in that the lug is reinforced with an aluminium insert, making the cutting itself a fair amount more challenging.Ī final touch before you start cutting is to ensure that none of the aforementioned swarf/dust can get itself inside your MP7, if you don’t take the following precautions I can assure you that your MP7 will rapidly eat itself to death. This will leave you with the mounting lug exposed as below. Once the clip is removed, push the axle/pin through and the whole grip should simply pull off. STUMP COFFEE TABLES DRIVERTo remove the grip, simply pop off the E-clip with the flat blade driver (it can be quite tough but a firm push should pop it off). Next up you’ll want to start removing the foregrip itself, I’ve seen people hack away at the mount with this still attached but trust me… it’ll get in the way and you’ll risk cutting into the parts you don’t want to. I did also take off the side rails as they’ll need to come off anyway and taping up the ingress points is easier to do once they’re off. There is a good argument for also stripping the bolt and barrel assembly out of the receiver before you start cutting but I didn’t think this would be essential as with the bolt in there it’s one less ingress point for the plastic/aluminium dust and swarf your about to create. My advice would be to remove everything you can from the MP7, take off the stock and the sights, remove the flash hider and take out the mag… Anything that isn’t inside the MP7 will only get in the way. So 15/20 minutes, but remember it’s not about speed… Accuracy is what counts so make sure you take your time and get it right, you’ll only get one shot. The job itself only takes about 5 minutes, the prep takes about another 10. With the tools and parts taken care of, all you need is a clear workspace and a bit of uninterrupted time. So what do you need to turn the Marui MP7 from its stock A1 format to a railed A2? I’d suggest the following as a bare minimum: There are many people who sing the praises of the VFC GBBR but I never got along with mine, the AEG version has certainly got its appeal but at the price point it’s at… I’ll keep the TM. I have to say that the VFC felt absolutely amazing, it’s just a massive shame the performance wasn’t on par with my expectations. To paraphrase Dave of Maple Leaf Tactical “What I wouldn’t give for a properly sized TM MP7 with a recoil engine in it!” Now this alone might have just been passed off as someone else’s opinion but having had experience of a railed “Navy” MP7A2 in the form of my old VFC GBB, I remembered how much I actually missed that Magpul RVG on the front.Īdd that to a little bit of human nature, always wanting to be a little different… It’s not a modification you see all the time, certainly not on a TM. However, after posting a picture of my MP7 in all its glory on IG I received a comment from that made me take a second look at it. I’ll be the first to admit I’m easily talked into something, a few weeks ago I’d have sworn that I’d never be cutting the front end off my MP7. The second part is to use the best tool you have for any given job, that’s especially true with Tokyo Marui replicas… Selecting an incorrect screwdriver could result in a stripped bolt head or worse… A stripped thread in the (often) plastic receiver. If you understand and know the job down to the last detail, it’ll eliminate most of the risk. Never underestimate or half arse a job, it’ll cost you much more than the time and money you were trying to save.Īs with much in life, preparation is key to any modification. All have their own potential dangers, some are as small as adding a few cosmetic scratches and some are potentially very expensive… A replacement receiver for a TM MP7 is going to cost you a lot of money, and that’s assuming you can even get one at that point in time. The truth is that any work you carry out on your replicas has a degree of risk involved, from swapping out a hop rubber to a non-reversible job such as the one we’re about to walk through.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |